Maurice Ohayon aims to make jeans that get noticed.
After creating and later selling the Fetish, Western Passion and Seven7 denim lines, the French designer’s latest project, Notify, debuted exclusively in the Bon Marche flagship store here in November. The new line boasts details like adjustable seams and strategic gathers in the fabric for a flattering fit.
“Women’s bodies have evolved and certain fits for women no longer correspond with their bodies today,” said Ohayon, who grew up watching his mother sew made-to-measure men’s suits. “I wanted to make a classy jean that was sexy just by its fit and not by a vulgar wash.”
Handmade touches are emblematic of the Notify line. The label, for example, is hand-stitched on every waistline, an idea Ohayon picked up from seeing his mother stich her client’s names into the hems of suits. The jeans, which retail between $180 and $220, are also washed and brushed by hand without the use of acid or bleach.
“The hardest part of denim design is mastering the fabric’s wash and shrinkage characteristics,” said Ohayon. To do this, Ohayon supervises production of the fabric in Belgium to the jeans’ assembly in Italy. Pocket placement is an obsession for Ohayon.
“Women are always looking at the pockets’ placement,” he said. Notify’s 45-degree style, which uses fabric cut on a 45-degree bias, caught the eye of Linda Evangelista, who has since become a fan of the brand.
While Notify is growing, Ohayon is determined to maintain a niche approach for his Paris-based company, Crystal Denim. Only 2,000 pieces were exported to the U.S. last season, though waiting lists are growing. U.S. stores that carry the line include Scoop, a New York specialty chain, and Bergdorf Goodman. Ohayon said he plans to limit production of Nymphea, a best-selling style, figuring that having only “one successful model can be the rise and fall of a brand.”
Looking ahead, Ohayon plans to take Notify to the next level by making jeans for women that can be selected by not only the waist size, but the curve of the buttocks and the degree of arch to the back. In June, he will also ship his first limited-edition collection for men to Luisa Via Roma in Florence.
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